April 27, 2007 and what a blast!!! This is certainly one for the books and an occasion I will never forget. But let me start from the beginning.
About three weeks ago, the Yokozuna was in New York and called me to go out to dinner with his brother and some associates. Of course, I said "yes sir, yes sir, three bags full, sir" and dragged my friend, Scott, with whom I had just had a sushi dinner, to yet another sushi dinner. It was then that Asashoryu invited me to his 20th Yusho Celebration in Tokyo. In case you are not familiar with sumo, Asashoryu is only the fifth sumo wrestler since records started being kept and since the beginning of the six-tournaments-a-year era, to win 20 tournaments. While he is behind Takanohana, Kitanoumi, Chiyonofuji and the great Taiho, he has the least number of tournaments fought to reach 20 yusho titles.
I had already planned to go for the basho, but I had a free ticket on JAL, and the celebration party, although only three days before I had initially planned to leave New York, had me begging for a change in flights fully five days earlier than the original flight. OK, so I was able to get a seat, but I did not have the invitation. Anyone who has attended a formal party in Japan knows that 1) you must have an invitation and 2) you must RSVP ASAP, or 3) you just were not let into the party, period. So there I was, now just two weeks before the party, with nothing but the oral invitation made in New York. Well, to make a long story short, the invitation arrived (as you knew it would) after emails, phone calls, and the wrong name and address on the first one sent! I quickly Fedexed the reply card to the appropriate address in Japan, and breathed easier for the four days remaining before my departure.
The day finally came and I proceeded to the hotel, the same that Asashoryu and his lovely wife engaged for their wedding reception, and one that is popular with many sumotori, oyakata and others in the sumo community for celebratory events. I was not surprised to see that it was the same main banquet hall, too, in which the wedding party was held - that massive, sweepingly curved, downhill walkway, leading to a huge anteroom------ SWARMING with supporters. Finding the "check-in" table, I was greeted by Ichinoya - the world's oldest active sumo wrestler, Kimenryu - one of the yokozuna's tsukebito (assistants), and Mrs. Takasago -the okamisan (stable master's wife). I held my envelope with the mandatory gift in it, but Kimenryu and the okamisan called me over and started giving me a red flower pin with red and white streamers that apparently had someone else's name on it and was only for the highest honored guests. I smiled, shook my head indicating there was a mistake and proceeded to the gift-plus-check in table. But Kimenryu, ever attentive , came after me and insisted I take the flower pin, with the name "VERBAL" written on the ribbon. After speaking to a few people later on, though, I realized that this was not really too much of a stretch from Barbara to Verbal if you soften the consonants and play a little with the vowels. Not to mention that I would be one of only three non-Japanese, non-Mongolian, and, in fact, non-Asian guests there, and the other two already had their ribbons. It did not take me .long, though, to see something very funny in that mistake, and anyone who knows me would likely say that "verbal" could very well describe me in some respects - although "verbose" would be better.. Anyway, I had a good laugh with a few people about that one.
The anteroom opened at 6 PM, even though the main ballroom did not permit entrance until 6:30. I did see some men in their black formal Japanese-wear, who were obviously sekitori, going into the ballroom early, but I could not identify them at my distance. The time passed very quickly with many people that I recognized.- but was unable to put names to - greeting me. Of course, this staggered opening presented some logistics problems in that, as soon as the main doors opened, and the Yokozuna and his heya master, Takasago Oyakata took their places in the receiving line, there was this swell of people, all of whom crowded to one side in order to say hello to Asashoryu. Unfortunately, I got swept up in this crowd, but eventually, wended my way over to the other side, behind where the TV and other press were located. Didn't matter. As I caught the yokozuna's eye, and gave a small wave, as in "I'll see you later", he motioned for me to come over and gave me a big hug and kiss. What a man!
Time to go in and wow - was this an impressive scene! I had been in that very ballroom before, for the wedding celebration, but that was a sit-down affair - a hall filled with tables seating eight people at each. This was much different! The perimeter of the room sported buffet-type, but chef-attended tables with Japanese, Chinese and international fare; a wall with a huge drape showing the Yokozuna in his dohyo-iri pose; a stage along part of one wall which also had a few tables for special guests to be served; and the piece de resistance - a corner with a huge daruma surrounded with jeroboams of Laurent-Perrier champagne!!! Oh, yeah!
As I wandered around the room, I wondered where the sekitori went to. There were any number of the junior rankers from Takasago-beya, plus one very pleasant surprise in the form of Asashoryu's "borrowed" tsukebito from the former Mitoizumi's heya - Kazafuzan, the Kazakhstan boy from Nishikido-beya. Then I spotted Oga, who had been the bow-twirler since Asashoryu became Yokozuna and who is retiring this basho. I'm so sad to see him go. He is a fine young man who worked very hard to get to Juryo - and still performed the bow-twirling while in Juryo, a definite rarity. I guess, though, that his goal was to reach sekitori and retire if he were in danger of going back down to the so-called "nonsalaried ranks". His haircutting ceremony won't be until June - that made this meeting all the more bitter-sweet for me since I would be unable to stay for it. I'll have one more time to see him, though, at the senshuraku, or
I had been told that there would be about 3,000 guests at this party. Never very good at judging the population of crowds, 3,000 would seem to be a reasonable number since the room accommodated 5,000 and it was fairly well packed wherever there weren't tables of food or drink.
Other than what took place on the stage later on, the features of the party were 3 huge ice sculptures - a life-size one of a yokozuna (generic, I think - it didn't much resemble
At the back of the room w ere three pyramids of those wooden
Then there was that huge wall drape at the end of the room.
Back to the party and the festivities. There were a number of speakers, none of whom I recognized, but many of whom I would suspect are Asashoryu's koenkai (supporters club) officials.Then, a sole blonde foreigner took the stage and announced, in English, that he was some high official with Laurent-Perrier in Japan, which was presenting the Yokozuna with 48 jeroboam of their best champagne, That's 48 bottles of 3 litres each or a bit over 3 quarts each bottle - undeniably a great amount of fine bubbly!
Then came the opening of the sake casks, with Ozekis Hakuho and Kotooshu, Asasekiryu, and Asashoryu, along
with some dignitaries or other, doing a ceremonial "pounding" with those wonderful wooden hammers. More speeches, then the introduction of a special guest - Nagabuchi Tsuyoshi, who, according to the very kind info-sharing members of the Sumo Mailing List is one of the premier singers in Japan. Having had his debut song in 1977, he has had twelve number one hits and has sold over 10 million singles. Well, I could certainly understand why, having now watched and heard him sing his biggest hit "Tombo", with a short assist from Asashoryu. Nagabuchi also performed a superb harmonica solo before taking his bows. What a treat! I am also putting a short clip of that performance.
Towards the close of the party, there was one more act, a quartet of ballerina-clothed contortionists, which I know is an art in Mongolia.
The usual eating and drinking, and socialization ensued, with photo ops with the Yokozuna for all who asked. I had never had sake with a pinch of salt at the edge of the wooden cup, also called a masu, but I think I'm going to ask for a salt-rimmed glass next time I have it in New York. It was very nice like that - cold, only, of course - I really don't like hot/warm sake.
I spotted Ama wandering around by himself and spoke to him for a few minutes - Ajigawa's newly moved and renovated heya has still not been completed, so he and his heya-mates continue to avail themselves of the hospitality of other stables .
Three other Mongolian rikishi were busily talking amongst themselves.
Of course, the Yokozuna's Mom, Dad, sister Iitchka, and Sumiyabazaar, one of his brothers, were also there, as
were his always gorgeous wife, Tamiraa, and his children, Iina and Jamian.
As the party wound up, the omiyagi were distributed - a bottle of fine sake (or shochu - I can't tell which and I'm certainly not going to open the bottle to find out here.) with the label commemorating the event, and a huge bath towel, also patterned in celebration of the feat.
As they say, a good time was had by all, and I fairly floated back to my hotel when the rest of the partying ended.
